»Even more important, in addition to physical preparation, is mental preparation to meet the emerging rigors and mental challenges. Mostly only one attempt remains. In the end, the mountain decides.«

How it all began

For high-altitude mountaineers there is only one way: up. Marc Grün’s ascent began over fifteen years ago, when he first conquered a peak that was not immediately hikable. Since then, the project engineer and native of Ulm, Germany, has faced ever new heights: first the four-thousand-meter peaks of the Alps, then the Stok Kangri in India (6,153), the Aconcagua in Argentina (6,961), the Pik Lenin (7,134) on the border between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, and finally the Himlung Himal (7,126) in the world’s highest mountain range, the Himalayas.

On mountains like the Himlung at -30° C the simplest things and needs like eating, toilet or washing become a problem. The cold is compounded by the thin high-altitude air, which can lead to high-altitude intoxication. »You are no longer in control of your senses and have to make vital decisions, realistically assess your strength and solve unforeseen problems as quickly as possible. Otherwise, in the worst case, you get up the mountain, but you don’t get back.« Respect and humility for the mountain and nature are especially important to Marc; sometimes the only way is to turn back when the mountain threatens one’s life. Because in order to get further up, sometimes you first have to go back down.

Training in 5 disciplines

What most people don’t realize, extreme mountaineering is mainly a matter of head and mental strength. Marc’s training preparation consists of 30% physical and 70% mental training. In addition to strength training, yoga and cycling, Marc trains his fitness by mountain running in the Allgäu. In the endurance run of several hours is sprinted up the mountain and during the gondola descent briefly take a breather, sometimes over 8 hours and min. 4,000 meters of altitude away with heavy backpack and weight cuffs on the feet (mountain boots simulation). While running, he solves possible problems that may arise during the expedition, to be able to react quickly and calmly in the rush of altitude.

His next mission

»My next expedition is a dream of many high-altitude mountaineers. At 8,163 meters, Manaslu, also known as the Mountain of Souls, is one of the highest mountains in the world. In fact, it is the eighth highest mountain – Mount Everest is not even 700 meters higher. Besides this ambitious peak, the expedition is my second to the Himalayas, a special, temporally, physically and mentally challenging experience, but also a spiritual experience that mountaineers live off for the rest of their lives,« Marc Grün.

To face the ascent of one of the highest, he has spent the last 15 years approaching the eight-thousanders mountain by mountain. For the past year and a half, he has been training intensively, not only physically but also mentally, to be up to the upcoming exertions and mental challenge. »The 1,000 meters in altitude from a seven-thousand-meter peak to an eight-thousand-meter peak, that’s worlds at that altitude.« On September 5, 2023, his journey to Nepal will begin. After the 10-day journey on foot to the mountain, the high camp chain is gradually built up and the material is transported up the mountain with local Sherpas. Then it’s time to rest and wait for a few days of reasonably good weather. Because for the final ascent there is only one attempt, then the body is too strained and a second attempt becomes life-threatening.

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